As a wine writer I’ve long sought out vineyards in weird and wonderful locations so when I heard whispers about a small vineyard tucked away on the grounds of an Adelaide city church, I knew I had to find it.
A treasure hunt of the vinous variety ensued, initially proving fruitless (pun intended). Then, in February, a chance encounter with members of the Amateur Winemakers and Brewers Club of Adelaide (AWBCA) provided the all-important clue about the hidden vineyard’s location.
The afternoon sun is creating cartwheels of colour across St Laurence’s Church’s stained-glass windows when I arrive at Buxton Street, North Adelaide. I’m here to meet with AWBCA committee member and St Laurence viticulturist Dr Walter Dollman who lives nearby.
Dr Walter Dollman watches over the 2026 harvest.
The vineyard isn’t visible from the quiet city street but venture beyond the large hedge framing the property and the vines emerge, silently waiting for the last of this season’s harvest to be picked. The AWBCA viticultural team, led by Walter, is tasked with caring for the historical treasure and, Mother Nature permitting, its annual bounty.
The Dominican Priory’s west-facing upstairs balcony overlooks the vineyard, the towering 1890s architectural feat a reminder of the property’s origins.
“The only other city known to have a similar small operative vineyard in its old centre is Venice known as Venissa,” Walter says as he leads the way through the grounds, towards the shiraz plantings.
“The ownership of the land dates back to before 1867 when St Laurence Church was erected on the corner of Hill Street. The Catholic Church had purchased four contiguous town acres forming a block bounded by Hill Street, Buxton Street and Mills Terrace.
With the arrival of the Dominican Order in the late 1890s, over half the land (2.5 acres) was sold and the proceeds probably used towards the construction of the Priory adjacent to the old church in 1899.”
In the years since, the adjoining and remaining half acre to the west served the church, initially as a vegetable garden with fruit trees providing produce to the Priory. Fr Mannes Tellis, OP, is the current Parish Priest of Prospect-North Adelaide, and Dominican friars donned in white habits smile as they walk through the peaceful site. The grounds are also home to citrus, fig, loquat and apple trees. A large pepper tree and a trinity of tall ancient palms, likely dating to the 19th Century, watch over the Clos St Laurence vineyard, tales of yore whispering on the breeze.
“In the late 1990s Blackfriars Priory School, in conjunction with other secondary schools, established a small vineyard on the land to support its courses in oenology/viticulture,” Walter says.
“The school sourced high-quality shiraz clones and planted eight rows of vines running north/south. It was established as a model vineyard using recycled PVC posts and incorporating an advanced ‘fertigation’ drip system (both irrigates and fertilises). ‘Organic’ practices were put in place with the 170 vines – and at 20-plus years of age, they are now in their prime.”
The Dominican Priory looks out over the vineyard,
When Blackfriars College changed its course structure some years ago, the resident Dominican Fathers (friars) were determined that the vineyard should continue in the tradition of an enclosed vineyard associated with monastic buildings in Europe.
“However, as the friars were ageing with some in their eighties, managing all the physical tasks became difficult,” Walter says.
The solution was for a community group with viticultural and winemaking skills to assist in the vineyard’s management. Cue the AWBCA.
“This decision has proven to be positive at all levels,” Walter says. “As well as the interests of the Priory being secured, the community wine group, the Amateur Winemakers and Brewers Club of Adelaide, together with residential neighbours and parishioners had successful vintages in 2022 and 2023 each of about 700+ kilograms of fruit.”
More recently, the 2026 vintage was plucked from the vines by about 16 club members and a small group of friends and family. The hand picking (nearly 700 kilograms) was led by was led by Walter and fellow viticulturists Peter Tilsley and Michael Lineage (club secretary) and the harvest was blessed by Fr Matthew Newman. The grapes were then crushed in Michael’s garage (aka mini winery).
The grapes produced are divided into AWBCA syndicates which were charged with making competitive wine assessed by experts under the wine’s generic ‘The Priory’ name. Some of the red of course, are used as sacramental wine. There are also plans to make a fortified wine this year.
In a positive sign for the future of winemaking talent in the state, Ironwood College, based in Adelaide’s CBD, also supports the vineyard activities, offering its technical expertise while its students engage in weekly onsite classes.
Walter, who is a FRAeS (Fellow of the Royal Aeronautical Society) and a JP, knows the importance of engaging young people with hand-on experience.
“My dad had vineyards at McLaren Vale’s McLaren flat,” he says. “When I was 14, I’d drive the tractor for him but had no idea what I was doing. I have lovely memories of it all and I just love being out there with my secateurs in the middle of winter, just pruning away and letting my brain float away.”
The vineyard is also a City of Adelaide “green site” in relation to re-greening Adelaide.
“The vineyard complements the superb architecture of the state heritage listed church and the priory – setting them clear from the immediate residential property to the west,” Walter says.
“It also serves as a healthy focal point for more than 40 community members who regularly participate in outdoor activities including pruning, spraying, canopy management, fertilisation and irrigation, bird and weed control. It’s also used for wedding photography and as a place of quiet contemplation by parishioners and friars alike. It is indeed a wonderful Adelaide secret which probably deserves to be better shared.”
Hear, hear. Throughout time, vineyards and their gnarly limbs stood the test of time, its seasons and the challenges that come with it, each wine vintage a time capsule of sorts, that expresses the beauty of place and patience. In a world full of distraction, peaceful places of natural beauty and history like this should be preserved.
AWBCA was established in 1972 to share winemaking and beer brewing skills and knowledge. Members meet monthly to swap ideas, listen to guest speakers and have their creations judged by professionals. Anyone curious about the joys of fermentation are welcome to join. awbca.org.au
